Coola stickare, del 2

Här är jag!
Tröjan som jag stickade på är klar men tyvärr har jag inte något foto hemma... jag ska be mamman till pojken om ett foto.

http://www.gungadin.se/Katalog%20internet%20gamla/katalog1.htm

Här ser det ut som om det är "rätt" tröja....

Det var det enda mönstret jag kunde hitta...

Här finns det en del...
(hittade länkar i TS till första tråden )
http://www.garnstudio.com/lang/se/search.php

Key:

means knit through the back loop.

means purl.

means a right-leaning cross. To do this without a cable needle, slip these two stitches to the right needle. Holding the left needle at the back of the work, insert the tip of the left needle into the back of the first stitch slipped. Pull the right needle free of both stitches (the skipped stitch will be loose for just a second, here), and pick the loose stitch up from the front. Put it back on the left needle and knit each stitch through its back loop.

means a left-leaning cross. Slip these two stitches to the right needle. Holding the left needle at the front of the work, insert the tip of the left needle into the front of the first stitch slipped. Pull the right needle free of both stitches and pick the loose stitch up from the back. Put it back on the left needle and knit each stitch through its back loop.

means a right-leaning twist. Slip these two stitches to the right needle. Holding the left needle at the back of the work, insert the tip of the left needle into the back of the first stitch slipped. Pull the right needle free of both stitches and pick the loose stitch up from the front. Put it back on the left needle. K1tbl, p1.

means a left-leaning twist. Slip these two stitches to the right needle. Holding the left needle at the front of the work, insert the tip of the left needle into the front of the first stitch slipped. Pull the right needle free of both stitches and pick the loose stitch up from the back. Put it back on the left needle. P1, k1tbl.

means a right-leaning 7-stitch ribbed cross. You can do this without a cable needle, though first-timers might just want to use one in the regular way to keep from dropping the loose stitches. Without a CN: slip these 7 stitches to the right-hand needle. Holding the left needle at the back of the work, insert the tip of the left needle into the back of the first 4 stitches slipped. Draw the right needle free and pick the 3 loose stitches up from the front. Put them back on the left needle. (K1tbl, p1) 3 times, k1tbl.

means a left-leaning 7-stitch ribbed cross. Slip these 7 stitches to the right-hand needle. Holding the left needle at the front of the work, insert the tip of the left needle into the front of the first 3 stitches slipped. Draw the right needle free and pick the 4 loose stitches up from the back. Put them back on the left needle. (K1tbl, p1) 3 times, k1tbl.

The sock so far:

(Instructions are for a VERY stretchy sock 7" in circumference at the ankle (unstretched). It will probably comfortably fit anyone with an ankle up to 9.5" in circumference)

Ribbing:

With US 0 (2.0mm) needles, cast on 76 stitches. Join, being careful not to twist.

Round 1 (RS): *K1tbl, p1. Repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 1 for 13 rounds more.

Round 15 (increase round): *(K1tbl, p1) 7 times. M1 purlwise. (K1tbl, m1 knitwise, p1, m1 purlwise) 2 times. (k1tbl, p1) 7 times. K1tbl, m1 knitwise. Purl into front and back of next stitch. M1 knitwise. K1tbl, m1 purlwise, p1, m1 knitwise, k1tbl, p1. Repeat from * for other half of sock. 20 stitches increased, 96 stitches total.

Leg:

Round 1: *K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart A across next 9 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart B across next 14 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart C across next 9 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart D across next 12 sts. Repeat from * for other half of sock.

Work as set until desired leg length is reached, ending with row 16 of Chart D.

Notes

If I haven't muddled things up too badly, the patterns should flow very neatly out of the ribbing. Right now, I'm planning for Chart D to fall at the two sides of the sock, with Chart A falling at the front and back. Chart D will be split and dealt with when the plain knitting for the gussets and sole begins, after picking up stitches for the heel. You really ought to work the crosses without a cable needle, as described. For one thing, it's about a million times faster - which matters when lots of crosses and twists happen every round. For another, I tend to think that some of the "crispness" of the twisted stitch is lost, the more fiddling and manipulating you do with it. It's cleaner to just make a couple swift movements with the two needles you're already working with. It should be easy to keep track of everything after just one or two repeats of the pattern - the patterns are very logical, and when combined have plenty of self-checks: as is right and proper, all the repeats are a multiple of the same number of rows (8, in this case, obviously). So, you know that every second cross of the ribbed cable should put you at the beginning of the side panel pattern again. You know to work the ribbed cable crosses in the first place because they always accompany the second set of crosses in the second half of the lattice. Etc, etc.

Första delen....

It really shines on the foot. I like the details a lot - maybe you can even see the way the well-behaved pattern flows into the slightly out-thrust slipped stitches of the heel (not that it didn't take some beating into submission for it to do so).

Pattern: My own (check it out below)
Yarn: Lang Jawoll, in color 0197 (Acid-y green)
Yardage: 1 50 gram balls (about 230 yards for a size 6 sock)
Yarn Source: Clover Hill Yarn Shop
Needles: 2.00mm (US 0) Addi Turbo circular needles
Gauge: 9 sts/inch over stockinette
Modifications: --

A nicely-formatted pattern for free download will be available eventually, but in the meantime:

ANDRA DELEN

...Leg:

Round 1: *K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart A across next 9 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart B across next 14 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart C across next 9 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 1 of Chart D across next 12 sts. Repeat from * for other half of sock.

Work as set until desired leg length is reached, ending with row 16 of Chart D.

Next round: Work as set (Row 1 of all charts) until first repeat of Chart D. Work as charted, but work 2 center sts as a left twist instead of a right cross. Work as set until second repeat of Chart D. Work first 5 sts as charted. Work next 2 sts as a right twist instead of a right cross (last 5 sts of round remain unworked). Holding 50 sts for instep, begin working heel flat.

Heel flap:

Set-up row: K2, ssk, (k1, sl1) 7 times, ssk 5 times, (sl1, k1) 7 times, ssk 2 times. 38 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Sl1. P to end.
Row 2: *Sl1, k1. Rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 15 times more, ending RS.

Turn heel:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p20, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2: Sl1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, p to within 1 st of turning gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, k to within 1 st of turning gap, k2tog, k1, turn.

Rep rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been consumed, ending RS. 22 sts remain.

Gussets and foot:

With right side facing, pick up and knit 16 sts along the adjacent slipped stitch selvedge. Work Row 2 of Chart D1 across next 7 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 2 of Chart A across next 9 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 2 of Chart B across next 14 sts. K1tbl. Work Row 2 of Chart C across next 19 sts. Work Row 2 of Chart D2 across next 7 sts. PM for new end-of-round (yes, this "round" is only a partial round).

Round 1: Pick up and knit 16 sts along adjacent slipped stitch selvedge. K across 22 sts of sole. K across 16 sts of gusset. 54 stitches total for sole + gussets. Work across instep as set.

Round 2: Ssk, work to last 2 sts of sole/gussets, k2tog. Work across instep as set.

Round 3: K1tbl, work to last st of sole/gussets, k1tbl. Work across instep as set.

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 8 times more, until 36 sts remain total for sole/gusset. Continue to work straight (as for round 3) until foot is 1.5" shorter than desired total length, ending with Row 1 of Charts D1 and D2.

Toe:

Set-up round: K across 36 sole sts. Discontinue patterned instep. K2tog, k2, ssk, k3, ssk 4 times, k5, ssk, k2, ssk, k6, ssk 4 times, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk. 36 sts remain for instep, 72 sts total.

Round 1: Ssk, k to last 2 sts of sole, k2tog. Ssk, k to last 2 sts of instep, k2tog.

Round 2: K to end.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 7 times more, until 40 sts remain total. Then, work Round 2 6 times more. 16 sts remain.

Arrange 8 sts of sole on one needle and 8 sts of instep on another. Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail. Graft toe closed. Weave in all ends; block lightly if desired.

----

Notes:

When slipping stitches to perform a twist or cross, always slip them purlwise, and slip them one at a time. This pattern eats yarn at a fearsome rate. I made a fairly small sock for a US 6 foot (7" from cuff to heel flap, 8.5" from heel to tip of toe, 4 repeats of Chart D in each section), and had only 6 grams of yarn left. However, Jawoll tends to be a little light - I've found that full skeins usually weigh only 43 or 44 grams. If you want to stick with one ball of this yarn and need a sock longer in the foot, you might need to compensate by making the cuff shorter. Otherwise, plan on 3 balls for the pair.

Other questions about this pattern? I'll answer them in the next post, and incorporate all this information into the formal pattern.

I'll try to do a little illustrated tutorial on cabling and twisting without a cable needle sometime soon. Happy knitting!

Tror ni att ni kan skriva ut det nu då

Jag upptäckte att när jag markerade texten och fick med en brun länk så blev även högerfältet markerat...